At Westcoast Saw, we’re all about equipping you with the tools and know-how to get the job done right. Whether you’re felling trees, splitting firewood, or just showing your axe some love, we’ve got your back. Today, we’re diving into the nitty-gritty of hanging an axe head on a handle—a skill every blue-collar warrior should have in their arsenal. And who better to guide us than Garrett Austin, a legend in the chainsaw and tree-felling world?

Garrett, known for his expertise and no-nonsense approach, teamed up with Jacob Rogers to walk us through the process of hanging an axe head on one of our new Westcoast Saw handles. Check out our video for a step-by-step visual on hanging the axe. Whether you’re a seasoned pro or a weekend warrior, this guide and our video will help you get the job done right.

Tools You’ll Need

Here’s what you’ll need to hang an axe head like a pro:

• Drill (for removing the old wedge)

• Draw knife or farrier’s rasp (for shaping the handle)

• Mallet (for setting the wedge)

• Vise (with leather or padding to protect the handle)

• Wooden wedge and steel wedges (for securing the head)

• Sandpaper or a card scraper (for finishing touches)

Most of these tools are likely already in your shop, and if they’re not, they’re easy to find at your local farm store or online.

Choosing Your Handle

When picking a handle, the most important thing to look out for is the grain. You want to make sure it runs vertically from the handle to the head of the axe. The best material handle to use is typically Red Oak, Ash, or Hickory like our ‘Full Swing’ Axe Handle. Our handle is manufactured on a lathe to ensure consistency in shape and feel. It’s always best to avoid softer woofs like pine or fir. 

Next choose a handle that feels most comfortable for your swing. Our ‘Full Swing’ Axe Handle offers a generous palm swell and a large eye that allows for shaping to fit oversized or irregular axe heads. 

Step-by-Step: Hanging an Axe Head

1. Remove the Old Handle

Start by drilling out the old wooden wedge. Garrett recommends drilling down the center to remove the wedge material. Once the wedge is out, you can punch out the remaining handle using a homemade punch (Garrett’s is made from an old axe handle).

Pro Tip: If your axe head is loose but you love the handle, you can remove the wedge, refit the handle, and rehang it for a tight fit.

2. Shape the New Handle

Some axmen prefer to hand the axe after shaping their handle but before sharpening the head. Others prefer to sharpen the head before fitting it to the handle. Either works fine as long as you take the time to do the job properly.

Once you’re ready to shape, use a draw knife or farrier’s rasp to shape the new handle to fit the axe head. Remember, it’s important to take your time here:

• Mark the eye: Trace the inside of the axe head onto the handle for a guide.

• Remove material slowly: When working with wood, always make sure you're going slow because you can't put wood back on, so taking off small amounts is preferred.

• Check for alignment: Look down the length of the handle to ensure it’s straight and even.

3. Fit the Axe Head

Proper fit is key here. Don’t rush through this step as an ill-fitting head could be potentially dangerous and cause injuries. A properly hung axe head must securely affix to the handle, be in line with the handle, and the angle of the head must align vertically with the handle.

Garret suggests looking down the length of the handle of the tight part of the eye to ensure you’re not shaving more on one side than the other.  You want to have a nice straight line all the way down through the end of the handle to keep the axe head straight as it goes on. 

So, as you go, you’ll need to test and fit as you go. As you’re fitting, try blending the area that you’ve removed handle material from so that you don’t have any abrupt or sharp edges. It’s a slow process, but the more time you take putting it together and taking it apart, the better your final product will be. Garrett, a Westcoast Saw lead product tester, recommends fitting and removing the head multiple times (at least 10!) to ensure a snug, secure fit.

Pro Tip: Use a Westcoast Saw depth gauge as a card scraper to smooth out rasp marks and leave a clean finish.

4. Set the Wedge

Once the head is fitted, cut a kerf (slot) about ⅔ the depth of the eye. Keep in mind that you don't want to cut your kerf too deep because then it’ll weaken the handle. Once you’ve got it shaped out where you want it, do a little fine tuning before hanging. This is when you can take a wooden wedge and cut it down to the length you need and then tap it in with a mallet. For extra security, add steel wedges to spread the wood and lock the head in place.

Pro Tip: Angle the steel wedges to avoid splitting the handle.

5. Finish and Preserve

Trim the excess wedge material and sand the handle for a smooth finish. To preserve the wood of your handle, Garrett recommends using Danish oil, Odie’s oil, or linseed oil. Regularly oiling the handle and wedge will keep them swollen and tight, preventing cracks and extending the life of your axe. 

Get the Gear

Ready to hang your own axe head? Grab one of our Westcoast Saw handles—forged in the USA and built to last. Pair it with our depth gauge for a flawless finish, and don’t forget to stock up on Danish oil or linseed oil to keep your tools in top shape.

Follow Garrett Austin on Instagram @step.into.the.deep for more tips and inspiration.